The Meadow Movement!

There is a growing movement to convert lawns into meadows as we begin to understand the cost to both our wallets and the environment of maintaining a traditional lawn.  There also seem to be a lot of opinions about how to go about making the switch.  There really isn’t a correct answer, but there are a lot of options to experiment with.  I’ll share some thoughts with you here so  that you can find your best fit.  

Just stop mowing  

If you decide to just stop mowing, your lawn can still look tidy and intentional and feel welcoming to you and visitors if you mow trails along your most frequently trafficked routes, and all the way around the perimeter of your yard.  See above for an example of how mown paths look in an unmown lawn.  Yes, you are still mowing, but the amount of mowing has dramatically decreased.  Plus, mowing paths is more fun than mowing large empty areas.  

While quitting mowing is so simple it may feel like you’ve forgotten to do something until you get used to it, there are a few maintenance things that you will need to plan for to keep your resulting meadow looking nice.  You will need to keep an eye out for invasive species and remove them before they get a foothold in your yard.   Unless you’ve got an active infestation, your invasive species hunt can generally be limited to once per season.  You will also need to mow your entire yard down to the ground annually after the first killing frost in order to kill off any unwanted trees or bushes. 

In case letting your lawn go sounds like just as much trouble as keeping it mowed, here is a chart to show the difference.  The amount of time/money that you save by not mowing or doing other traditional lawn maintenance more than makes up for the small amount of time you will need to spend on paths and controlling invasive plants.  

Mix plugs and/or seeds into your existing yard

If you are eager to grow native species in your yard quickly instead of just letting it go and letting nature take its course, you can add plugs here and there.  You can also make a habit of tossing native seeds into your yard to see what comes up over time.  Your plugs and seeds will have a better chance of growing if you pay attention to the quality of the soil, moisture and sunlight in the area where you are putting them and put appropriate plugs and seeds in places with the soil, moisture and sunlight that they prefer.  Because there are no guarantees with planting and sowing amongst an existing grass lawn that has been left unmowed, I recommend spreading seeds and divided plugs from native species that you have growing elsewhere on your property or from friends who are willing to share in order to save money.  Last year I just left my lawn (pictured above) unmowed to do its own thing.  The taller grass last year was a joy to watch in every type of weather and as it changed over time.  Unexpected plants like aster, daisy fleabane and Saint John’s wort popped up all on their own.  I decided to keep it shorter this year in hopes of giving space to plugs I installed and seeds that I scattered last year. I am experimenting every year!

Clear away all existing plants and grass and start fresh

If you are really eager to have a pure meadow full of native species, you can remove all existing vegetation and start with a “clean” slate, but please bear in mind that the slate is never really clean.  Wind, birds, other animals, ground water and even your own shoes are constantly bringing in seeds so you will still need to watch for invasive species, especially at first.  You can clear out most of what is already in your yard by using a sod cutter, silage tarp or herbicides. Clearing space will definitely make it easier for a native meadow to grow more quickly than it would by adding plugs and seeds to your existing yard.  

Each method of sod removal has advantages and disadvantages.  A sod cutter is quick, but you will need to know what you want to do with the sod once it has been removed and there will be gasoline, rental and landfill fees.  You are also removing a lot of the nutritional value of the soil by removing that top layer with the roots and plants.  Herbicides have different wait times before you can put down seeds, anywhere from a few days to a month or more, and the added disadvantage of being bad for wildlife.  If you want to go the herbicide route, it’s best to use a licensed, trained professional who knows which herbicide will do the best job for the least amount of harm.  Silage tarp is very effective, but is unsightly and should really be left down for a year to be sure of killing off everything underneath it so it isn’t very fast.  It is also a large amount of plastic, but it can be stored and reused.  When we put down silage tarp for you, we collect and reuse it when your job is done.  

More tips on getting started

Plant abundantly, preferably in fall.  Whether you decide to let your existing lawn grow up and supplement it with plugs and seeds, or clear the slate and start fresh, plan on installing your plugs and or spreading your seed in late fall.  Your plugs will appreciate the cooler weather, winter moisture and dormant season for getting a good start on their root systems.  Many of your seeds will need the freeze thaw cycle over the winter in order to be able to break dormancy.   Finally, sowing more seeds in the fall of the following two to three years are a good idea.  The more seeds you add to the ground, the more you are likely to see sprouts in years to come.  

Expect native grasses at first.  Native grasses spring up the fastest in the spring so you may think that grasses are all you have at first. Most seed mixes include 50-80% native grasses because grasses are necessary to maintain balance in a wildlife meadow. According to Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center, native grasses provide support and protection for tall flowers, fill in spaces around wildflowers that would otherwise be occupied by weeds, add color and texture to the landscape, prevent soil erosion and provide food and cover for wildlife.  Enjoying native grasses is a learning experience, but I guarantee you will come to enjoy watching them wave in the breeze and seeing dew drops collected on them in the mornings.  They are not as flashy as the flowers on meadow forbs (herbaceous flowering plants other than grass), but they have a quiet and graceful beauty all their own.  

Be patient. During your first year it may appear that all you have is grass, but your forbs are also sprouting and hanging out underneath the grass layer.  They will gain strength and be more dominant as the years progress.  If you want to help your forbs along, you can string trim your yard to 6” in height every 2-3 weeks during the first year and 1 foot in height every 4-6 weeks during the second year.  Don’t worry about cutting your forbs when you do this.  They will use the opportunity to strengthen their root systems instead of trying to flower. See below for a photo of a first year native meadow planting recently cut to about 6 inches.  If you look carefully, you can see forbs hiding amongst the grasses.  

Be prepared to be surprised!  Birds and other creatures are likely to bring in unexpected plants.  Species of butterflies, native bees and wasps (the vast majority are solitary, tiny and do not sting) and other fun insects like lightening bugs, ladybugs and praying mantises are likely to show up.  Expect to see something new on a regular basis.  

Be prepared to learn!  The more you know about your plants and the wildlife they attract, the better you will be able to steward your new habitat.  I highly recommend the  Picture Insect, Picture This, and Merlin apps to help you learn who is growing in or visiting your yard.  The better you are at stewarding your yard, the more you will love it and it will bring you joy.  

Talk to your neighbors!  Explain to them what you are planning, what you are doing and why you are doing it.  Even better, put up a sign with a brief explanation.  Remember, changing over to a meadow cuts down significantly on use of fossil fuels, emissions and chemicals in our waterways.  The plants absorb more water during rain storms and more carbon dioxide, which helps to mitigate flash floods and climate change.  Your new wilder yard will also provide wildlife habitat for birds and pollinators and will become more and more beautiful over time.  

Where to get seed:

• Mellow Marsh Farm located south and west of Chapel Hill

• Roundstone Native Seed located in Kentucky

• Prairie Moon Nursery  located in Minnesota.  Note:  Because Prairie Moon is located so far north, you will need to make sure that their seed mix is appropriate for the southeast, but they are a great place to order single, hard to find seed varieties if you decide that you want to include a seed variety not included in a premade mix.

All three places are happy to talk to you by telephone about your specific needs and questions.  They also have even more information about site preparation and maintenance on their websites.  

—Mary Beth

Getting Ready for Hot Weather

Every year the heat gets a little more intense and there are more days with high intensity air pollution.  Our employees struggle to work safely on the hottest and/or most polluted days.  In order to keep them safe, we have created a heat and air quality policy which will go into effect on May 1 and remain in effect until the weather cools down again.

• Here is what you need to know:  

• We will shift our available hours for physical labor to 7:30 AM until 2:00 PM during the first week of heat indexes greater than 90.

• If the heat index is predicted to be above 99, we will cancel work for the hours that it is expected to be that high.  

• If air quality is a code red, employees will work at their own discretion.  If it is code purple or above, work will be canceled. 

• We will do our best to send employees in pairs so that they can keep an eye on each other when the heat index is 90-99.

If you are at home on a hot day, please be aware that we may ask for ice, or permission to sit in a cool space if an employee is showing distress from the heat.  Hopefully this won’t be necessary with the new policies in place, but heat distress can get dangerous quickly if not treated properly so we would like to have all the resources available that we can in the event of an emergency. 

Thank you in advance for your understanding and cooperation!

—MaryBeth

BOOK REVIEW:

"Grow the Best Blueberries" by Robert E. Gough

This book (and its various editions/formats, including "Storey's Country Wisdom Bulletin A-89") is consistently mentioned as an excellent, practical guide for home gardeners. Robert E. Gough holds a doctorate in botany and is a Professor Emeritus of Horticulture, lending significant authority to his recommendations. The book covers essential topics such as environmental conditions, planting, watering, fertilizing, pruning, pest/disease protection, and harvesting. While it's a concise guide (often around 32 pages), it's highly regarded for its clear, actionable advice.

—Shannon

PLANT FOCUS: Echinacea Purpurea

Echinacea can be identified by their colourful, daisy-like flowers with raised, cone-like centers. The name Echinacea is derived from the Greek word ekhinos, meaning “hedgehodge or sea urchin” referring to the spiky center of the flower. Historically, North American Plains Natives used the fresh roots and root juice of echinacea to treat toothaches, sore throats, snakebites and blood poisoning. Today, many people take echinacea supplements to prevent the common cold and boost the immune system.

The straight native variety is reddish purple, but it is such a popular plant that there are numerous cultivars in a variety of colors. The natives reach 3 to 4 feet in height and need 1 to 2 feet of space in a traditional garden.  They are very easy to grow, low maintenance, drought tolerant and are happy to grow in terrible soil in part sun to full sun. Best of all, they will add colour, beauty and texture to both wildflower meadows and prairie gardens so if you are considering adding plugs to your existing lawn as a first step towards growing a meadow, echinacea purpurea is a great choice. The flowers bloom from June until frost and attract numerous butterflies and bees while the seeds are a feast for goldfinches and other birds.  

If you are looking to plant them in combination with something else in your garden or meadow, they go well with Russian Sage, Yarrow, Phlox, Rudbeckia, Goldenrod, Sedum, and Bee Balm.

We currently have quite a few extra echinacea ($8), carolina phlox ($7) and zigzag goldenrod ($12) in stock.  Let us know if you would like any of these plants and we will figure out a way to get them to you.  

—MaryBeth

TO-DO List for JUNE

Keep up with that seeding! As the weather warms up, direct sow outside in successions to make sure you extend that harvest all season long! It’s also time to keep an eye out for pests! Learning to identify and control pest infestations early on can make things way easier on you as the season progresses and for the years to come. The Sow True Seed  Pest Watch Guide can help you know where to look and how to identify these bugs! Learning pest control basics can also help ensure things don’t get too out of hand with those pests that love to munch.

• Continue to cover Brassica crops with floating row cover to protect from cabbage moth and flea beetle damage if these little critters have been a problem in the past.

• Colorado potato beetle adults, eggs, and larvae can be handpicked to remove or sprayed with an organic insecticide. The adults are yellow-and-black-striped beetles. The eggs are yellow and laid in groups on the undersides of leaves. The larvae are humpbacked and red. Look for them on the stem tips. They are present almost all season.

• Also keep an eye out for striped and spotted cucumber beetles. They transmit bacterial wilt to squashes and melons. Adults and eggs can be handpicked throughout the season.

• Watch out for Mexican bean beetles. To be on the safe side, you can cover the entire crop with floating row cover as soon as seedlings emerge.

• Aphids of all types show up on a range of host plants as soon as the warm weather arrives. Look for them in newly unfurling foliage. Sticky leaves are also a sign of their presence since they secrete a ‘honeydew.’ While it can be alarming, the honeydew itself doesn’t damage the leaves. Aphids, however, do damage the plant. Spray leaves with a strong jet of water to dislodge most of them. Insecticidal soap is an organic approved product that provides pretty good control as long as the insects are wet enough. A second and third treatment to kill newly hatched eggs may be needed in five to seven days. 

• Squash vine borer adults are one inch long, orange and green day-flying moths that are emerging from the soil about now. They lay brown, button-shaped, 1/16 inch eggs at the base of the vines of summer and winter squashes. Examine stems daily and remove eggs by hand to prevent burrowing of larvae as they hatch. Wrap lower 6 to 12 inches of stem with aluminum foil or floating row cover to prevent egg laying.

• Keep direct sowing sunflowers, nasturtiums, marigolds, borage, basil, and other warm season flowers and herbs.

• The beginning of June is an excellent time to take softwood cuttings of shrubs to start new plants. Some shrubs that can be propagated in this way are spirea, lilac, and viburnum.

• Stay out of the garden when the vegetable plant leaves are wet. Walking through a wet garden spreads disease from one plant to another.

• After your vegetable garden is well established, it is best to water it thoroughly once a week rather than giving it a light watering every day. That way, a deeper root system is encouraged to develop, which will later help the plants tolerate dry weather.  If possible, set up a drip irrigation system so that plant leaves do not get wet during watering.  They are fairly easy to set up on your own once you have the right supplies.  The folks at Berry Hill Drip can help you get started.  Youtube videos can generally help you with anything that you are confused about.  

• Keep a close eye on the quality of your spring crops. Hot weather causes lettuce to bolt and become bitter. Plant a warm season crop as soon as the spring vegetables are harvested.

• In most cases, blossom end rot on tomatoes, peppers, squash, and watermelons can be prevented. Do this by maintaining uniform soil moisture by mulching and watering correctly, planting in well-drained soil, and not cultivating deeper than one inch within one foot of the plant. Blossom end rot can also be corrected with an application of calcium-heavy fertilizer such as bone meal. Avoiding high nitrogen fertilizers can also help.

• Continue planting direct-seeded, warm season vegetable crops such as beans, summer squash, and cucumbers. 

• Garden flowers, whether annuals or perennials, benefit from "deadheading" after flowering. By removing the spent flower heads, energy is used to produce more flowers, foliage, and roots. Many will produce another flush of blooms. If you are collecting seeds or trying to feed birds, then skip deadheading.

• Flowering requires lots of energy so it can be helpful to fertilize annual plants with a balanced fertilizer once flowering begins. Fertilize one more time before the end of the season. 

• Weed the garden regularly to keep the task easy and manageable.

• There is still time to plant heat-loving Southern peas and asparagus beans.

• Pinch the flowers off of herbs like basil, mint, and oregano to promote bushy growth. 

• Harvest onions and garlic as the tops dry and fall over. Braid garlic tops and hang in a cool, dry place. Cut onion tops back to one inch and dry thoroughly before storing. Use any damaged produce immediately.

Patience

I wish I had a ripening spell,

To make them purple, and taste so well!

But instead I watch, with patience thin,

'Til summer’s end and harvest’s begin!

—Shannon

Happy Gardening!